| some injector info. Kind of useless pics but just thought I'd share how clean it looks under some of the interior pieces of my 93' Z.
 
I'm currently working on replacing some of my stock injectors so I can get my car to emission inspection prior to what I predict will be a long down time while doing some mods. After letting my Z sit for almost a year I found I now have four bad injectors. Two of them were completely open and two others had higher than normal resistance. After disecting the two open injectors I found that the problem was not caused by ethanol.
 There was nothing at all abnormal about the inside of the injector as been reported by the effects of ethanol. There was no evidance of swelling of any of the parts, there was no sign that anything had gotten inside the sealed coil housing and the coil wire was completely intact without any opening in the wire. What I did find is the typical effects of the break down of solder due to exposure of outside elements such as weather and humidity. This is a picture of the first injector I cut open. The end of the coil wire is wrapped around two small dowel pins which mates with the injector connector pins in the top part of the injector. The end of the coil wire wraps around these pins (one circled in green) and are soldered to them. The housing is poured around the coil wire in a special mold at manufacturing. You can actually see the wire inside the housing material where it eventually continues around into the coil of wire inside the housing. I broke the rest of the coil of wire away from the material housing.
 This is where the problem lies (circled in yellow). Moisture is getting in through the injector pins and traveling down through the two rubber grommets which make the seal around the area where the injector pins mate with the coil dowel pins. It could be that the rubber grommets are just dried out like most of the old hoses in the engine bay. There wasn't much left of them. This is causing corrosion which is breaking down the solder holding the coil wire ends to the small dowel pins.
 What I did was take a measurement between the pin circled in yellow with the end of the wire circled in green and found the continuity to be open. I then resoldered the wire at the pin and took another messurement and it now showed continuity. I also did this with my other open injector before I completely disected it. I was more careful in the way I took it apart and was able to resolder both coil ends to the pins. After doing so I was able to measure a correct continuity reading of 12ohms. I plan on posting those pictures later in a write up in the tech forum.
I'm not saying that ethanol is not a problem with injector failure. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't. It just wasn't the case with the two injectors I examined. I believe that Nissan changed the contant power to the injectors because of electrolysis taking place at the coil pins. With the introduction of moisture, that would contribute to the breakdown of the soldered coil wires to the pins.
 (Total Mouse Over Hits: a Lot) www.mytwinturbo.com Watch an ECZA meet caravan!
|
Some pics under the rear interior of my 93' Z and... - 
